Garlic and Sapphires

Neil and I drove up to Philadelphia for Thanksgiving and, as usual, picked up some audiobooks to make the 12-hour drive a bit more bearable. Among the meager offerings at the public library was Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise by Ruth Reichl. Reichl, now the editor of Gourmet, recounts her experiences as the restaurant critic for The New York Times. In an effort to find out what dining was like for the average Jane, she donned an elaborate series of disguises for her restaurant visits. Unsurprisingly, the difference in the way that she is treated while in disguise is striking. But the book is more than just the story of her undercover dining adventures. We're also made privy to the politics of the mid-90s New York dining scene, and you can't help but smirk in satisfaction each time she awards two stars to over-hyped, unimpressive restaurants (much to the chagrin of many Times readers) or cheer each time she lavishes praise on outstanding, but overlooked, ethnic eateries. We also see Reichl grapple with the meaning of restaurant criticism and the implications of her various alter egos. The book is in turns poignant, mouthwatering, and uproariously funny. We had a fantastic time listening to it. It turns out that this is actually Reichl's third memoir; she also wrote Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table and Comfort Me With Apples: More Adventures at the Table. I can't wait to read them both!